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Heater control box 3D Printer File Image 1
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Heater control box

Vijit avatarVijit

December 8, 2024

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Description

This is the desktop version, so the controller is tilted.

Bill of materials (BOM):

  • Thermostat W3230 (like this one). Approx. size 79mm x 43mm x 26 mm.
  • My thermostat version required an external power supply 12V. I use something no-named from AliExpress, see in the images.
  • Black power plugs - XT60EW (see in the pictures).
  • I used the switch without marking (I took it from the old power filter), the approximate window size for it is 28 mm x 13.1 mm.
  • The hatch fixed in place by brass immersion nut M3.
  • A few screws M3.

Warning: I didn't print the current models. I made the first version, manually fixed some places and repeated these improvements to the models. So, I believe, that they are fine, but didn't check them.

I used the no-named thermostat with termal limit 500°C. But its size exactly the same as W3230 (which has much lower thermal limit), so I noted this model as the reference.

The tube has predefined supports and sacrificial layer (see in the images). You should cut them carefully after printing. Also you must to setup supports "from the platfrom only" for the wall rib. Also I recommend to use raft for printing the tube.

The walls are glued to the tube by cyanoacrylate.

The hole for the sensor cable isn't marked on the wall. Make a hole where you want. FYI: the sensor cable is hard to solder, you need experience and ingenuity. I used XT30 pair for it.

The power supply attached on double side adhesive tape inside the box.

The purpose of power plugs. In my solution, on the right wall (with a switch) is power "in" outlet, on the left wall - power out.

Another note: XT60EW has the nuts M2.5, it is pretty rare size. I extended the thread to M3.

Why I didn't use the same plug for the sensor, mounted in the wall? First of all, it's dangerous. It is possible to confuse the connection and pass high voltage to the sensor. Second: I don't have another types of suitable plugs. So, I made it "in air".

Source

The source is here.

How to use my configurable models in OnShape

To get an access to the thing source you'll need an account in OnShape. It can be free, so made it for yourself.

Go to the document by the specified link.

Go to the tab "print setup". There should be a few configurable values in the upper-left corner. Change what you need. Wait while rendering finished then export parts from this tab (see in the bottom-left corner). They already oriented in the best printing position.

In this project only the tube should be imported from print setup, take the rest of the details from the original tab "box".

Printing disclaimer

You must have a well calibrated printer including correct flow setting for the filament which you suppose to use. The printing tolerance is 0.15mm.

If you're not sure or didn't understand what I'm talking about - don't waste the time to make this thing. Or don't blame me after, that your printed parts don't fit together.

Also in some cases you'll need to use the tools (needle files for corners, drill bits for holes and etc.) to reach the best result from the printed model. Especially if use don't use Linear Advance or similar algorithm. You shouldn't expect that the model will be fine immediately from the printer. At least not always :)

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - Share Alike

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