May 18, 2026
Description
after over 500 downloads I was forced to reupload this model to a new link because the original was taken down and removed all my hard earned points by MakerWorld under the reason “Por*ography Dissemination,” even though the post has nothing to do with that. I appealed the decision with supporting evidence and images for human review, but it was still rejected. Hopefully, this one won’t be unfairly flagged as well.
Boost MeA boost would mean a lot—this project represents over a year, dozens of iterations, and hundreds of hours of work.
Click on Download STL/CAD files to find the .STEP files and orca slicer profile
The Version 5 for H2S Gear version is finally done! I’ve just uploaded the STEP file.
I’ll need a bit more time to finish the full documentation, but I’ve been very busy recently and didn’t want to keep you all waiting any longer.
For now, you’ll need to open the STEP file in your preferred CAD software, export the individual parts, and then slice them for printing.
See the Model in 360 Exploded View here
If you need quick help or just hanging with us, talking about this toolhead
Join our Discord community
Full step-by-step Assembly Video for version 4, which is almost the same steps as 4.5
⚠️If you are using the H2S extruder, don't skip this part! bellow
If you’re chasing top-tier print quality without breaking the bank, this DIY Bambulab H2D/P2S style of toolhead is a game-changer. — It’s modular, efficient, and full of smart upgrades.
✅ Why Build One?
• Compatible with bambu H2D P2S,A1,P1S, X1C hotneds
• Compatible with H2S and A1 gear
• Incredible print quality — compatible with Bambu slicer profiles
• Quick-swap nozzles — Get back to printing in seconds
One of the main advantages of using the Bambu Lab hotend heating assembly is that you’ll never break the thermistor cable again. Since nozzle swapping requires no contact with any wiring, the risk of cable damage is completely eliminated.
• Modular design — Upgrade and replace parts with ease
• Integrated filament sensor — Internal and reliable
• Auto filament loading — Smooth and user-friendly
• Lightweight toolhead — Perfect for input shaping and high-speed accuracy
• Affordable parts — Clone components are widely available and budget-friendly
• Consistently reliable — Solid mechanical structure, built to last
• Looks clean & professional — Not an average DIY toolhead
📦 Materials (BOM) – Organized by Category
All items include direct purchase hyperlinks
⚠️ Note About Links & Purchasing
Some of the Amazon links are affiliate links, provided only as a reference for part specifications and compatibility.
You are not required to buy from Amazon, and I don’t mind where you purchase the parts from.
My main goal with this project is to keep it as budget-friendly as possible so more people can build, experiment, and enjoy this toolhead.
Feel free to source parts locally, from eBay, Taobao, Bambu Lab, or any trusted supplier, as long as the specifications match.
⚠️Also, pay attention and don`t just buy everything on the list, some are duplicated, just choose what you need ‼️
RX VORON V4– 5015 Toolhead BOM
🔩 Fasteners & Hardware
🔌 Tubing & Connectors
🌀 Cooling Fans
(⚠️Pay attention to the voltage according to your toled headboard voltage requirement)
🎛️ Electronics & Boards
🔥 Heating Assemblies ⚠️
Original Bambu Lab assemblies strongly recommended. DO NOT buy H2D Left – Right is easier to work with.
🔍 Probes (⚠️choose one)
⚙️ Extruder Gears (⚠️choose one)
New recommendation to buy the
H2S extruder gear, it is a bit better than the A1 gear, especially if you plan to print TPU.
Also, it comes already with a compression tensioner spring, but it has no bearings in the package, so you will need to buy bearings separately, link below, Bambu Lab Store
if you buy another 3rd-party extruder gear or if you buy the H2S extruder gear, they don't include bearings in the package, so you need to buy the bearing separately thats. MR104 ZZ Amazon
BIQU Alternative Extruder Gear (good for abrasive filaments, also includes bearing) – Amazon
🌀 Springs
🧷 Pins, Blades & Switches
🔥 Hotends (⚠️choose the one you need).
Match your hotend to your heating assembly. Mixing A1 heating assembly with H2D hotend gives almost no flow improvement.
🔧 Motors & Wiring
🟢 One-Stop: All-Original Bambu Lab Parts
Purchase directly from Bambu Lab for guaranteed compatibility:
💡 Pro Tip: Bookmark this list! Double-check compatibility before ordering, especially for heating assemblies and hotends. When in doubt, buy original Bambu Lab parts for best results. 🛠️✨
When using a static filament cut depressor, configure an excluded zone in your slicer according to the depressor’s XY position.
⚠️ After installing this toolhead, remember to update your slicer settings for retraction and deretraction speeds.
Also, don’t forget to update the extruder rotation distance and heating assembly sensor type in Klipper to the value below:
rotation_distance: 4.7830131121165
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F #Must use this for Bambulab sensor type
pullup_resistor: 4700 #for ebb36 gen2 use 2200
min_extrude_temp: 0 #important if you will use my load unload filament macro, keep it 0
max_extrude_only_distance: 300.0 # #important if you will use my load unload macro
max_extrude_cross_section: 10.0
I have attached a .txt file below with all important Klipper settings and macros for proper use of this toolhead
💡I’ve noticed that most people tend to comment or share photos only when they run into issues. But this toolhead represents over a year of work, iteration, and improvement to become what it is today.
So I truly appreciate everyone who takes the time to share photos of their builds — not just problems, but successes too. It really means a lot and helps show what this project can achieve in the real world.
Thank you for being part of it 🙌
Consider supporting me and this project on my PATREON — your support helps keep development going.
Enjoy the future of DIY printing!
Happy printing!
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🔧 Common Issues & Fixes
1. Extrusion Inconsistency
Possible causes & checks:
• Rotation Distance
• Make sure your rotation_distance is set correctly as specified in the provided .txt file.
• Sensor Type
• Verify that the correct sensor type is set correctly as specified in the provided .txt file.
• Filament Tensioner Adjustment
• Proper tension is critical.
• Tighten the screw without filament inserted until you see slight movement, then stop.
• Too tight → filament deformation
• Too loose → slipping / under-extrusion
• Spring Selection
• You can use different springs, but:
• If the spring is too soft, it will cause inconsistency at high flow rates.
• Recommended: ≤ 0.8 mm wire thickness
• Weak springs = unstable extrusion under speed
• Filament Sensor (Switch Type)
• If installed:
• Enable pull-up resistor in Klipper (^ symbol)
Example : switch_pin: ^EBB:PD0
• Without it:
• You may get false triggers
• This can unintentionally activate load/unload macros → causing inconsistent extrusion
2. Heating Assembly Melting mainbody mount
• If your chamber temperature exceeds 55°C and you printing at nozzle temp over 260c.
• Use high-temperature materials to print mainbody, such as:
• PAHT-CF
• PPS
• PA12-CF
• Alternative:
• Use the hybrid design provided on step&stl:
• Printed body + CNC/machined high-temp components
3. Filament Cutter Getting Stuck
• Do not fully tighten the screw holding the cutter.
• Leave slight clearance:
• The spring will handle the pressure.
• Over-tightening = binding / jamming
4. Filament Not Fully Clearing After Cut
• A small piece may remain inside, making hotend swaps difficult.
Solution:
• Use the provided cutting macro
• Make sure to:
•Properly tune the XY position Align it with your cutter depressor location
5. Back Cover Hitting the Carriage
• Some printer carriages are taller than standard.
Fix:
• Use the shortened back cover version (if needed)
Recommendation:
• If you don’t have clearance issues:
• Use the standard back cover (more space for cables)
6. Heat Affecting Probe (Eddy / Microprobe)
• Excess heat from the hotend can damage or deform your probe.
Solution:
• Print and install the probe heat shield included in the model
7. The thermistor is reading the wrong temperature
Thermistor Pull-Up Resistor Guidance🌡️
Different toolhead boards may require different pull-up resistor values for accurate temperature readings. This affects how the thermistor signal is interpreted by Klipper or other firmware.
• Ebb36 1.2: Works correctly with a 4700 Ω pull-up resistor.
[pullup_resistor: 4700]
• Ebb36 Gen2 : Requires a 2200 Ω pull-up resistor for correct readings.
Tip: If the temperature readings seem offset (too high or too low), check the pull-up resistor value first before adjusting any other settings. Using the wrong pull-up resistor can cause misreading by ~30 °C or more, affecting print quality and material behavior.
pullup_resistor: 2200
💡 Final Tip
Most issues here come down to setup precision, not hardware defects.
Take your time during installation:
• Follow the documentation carefully
• Double-check mechanical adjustments
• Validate your Klipper config before printing
V4.5.2 Changelog
Improved rear electronics cover design to fully hide the board and cables (idea suggested by @ozncshn)
License:
BY-NC-ND
RAIDY
