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XYZ daVinci Jr - E3D V6/Lite6 Mount 3D Printer File Image 1
XYZ daVinci Jr - E3D V6/Lite6 Mount 3D Printer File Image 2
XYZ daVinci Jr - E3D V6/Lite6 Mount 3D Printer File Image 3
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XYZ daVinci Jr - E3D V6/Lite6 Mount 3D Printer File Image 6
XYZ daVinci Jr - E3D V6/Lite6 Mount 3D Printer File Image 7
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XYZ daVinci Jr - E3D V6/Lite6 Mount

kr15_uk avatarkr15_uk

August 17, 2016

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Description

DO THIS ON YOUR OWN RISK!!!
I'm not responsible if you manage to fry your printer, any parts or even your house.
Use common sense when wiring and mounting things.
Never leave printer going unattended.
If you haven't done anything like that in the past for don't have required knowledge of electronics - DON'T DO IT!

If you do agree with what I've said - feel free to download.
If you disagree - click on magic X button and print some Yoda head (which is quite nice actually)


This is E3D v6/Lite6 mount for XYZ Printing daVinci Jr.
It's suppose to go in stock Jr, no RAMPS mod is required or so (obviously if you've done one it will work as well).

To get it up and running you'll need obviously E3D v6/Lite6 gated itself and print Mount and Clip STL's.
(To fix Clip in place you can use existing Jr printhead screws which holds fan in place.)
You can use heatsink fan which goes with E3D hotend but I've printed this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:839620 to have print cooling fan as well and used existing Jr hotend fan (only flipped so it blows onto the hotend instead of pulling it)

I've printed it vertically to give some extra strength for the mount and hive smooth finish to the airflow channel.
Also printed with PLA but ABS obviously would be better hence the temperatures.
Been running it good 12-14hours a day for the past 2x weeks and had no problems what so ever.

Last thing you need to do is to relocate printhead PCB somewhere off the X gantry and wire everything up.
Jr is using the same 100k resistor as E3D so no mods to that are needed - just wire everything directly.

Problems with current design. Ok, it's not really a problem, it's more like small miscalculation.
With E3D in place you need to go to Z axis offset and add roughly 2mm, depend from your bed level.
I'll probably fix this in future versions but for now it's not a problem.

In my to do list I have:

  1. Design little PCB mount which are held on 2020 extrusion somewhere.
  2. Add cable clamps so I can nicely trace cables from hotend to the bowden tube.
  3. Design little cable organiser on the PCB end but that'll probably be part of the PCB mount/case.

Thing's what I'm not planning to do:

  1. Adopt this design to E3D's clone hotends (1st they are not worth the money quality wise, 2nd hotend build quality isn't there so don't be surprised if by saving £20 you'll burn down your house which I presume is worth more that £20)
  2. Adopt this design to any other hotend manufacturer, I just don't have any of them at hand.
  3. Build all in one mount + cooling fan. This open design is whole reason why I said bye to Jr "boxed" design approach.

Things I do consider:

  1. Do direct drive iteration of this design so I can print flexible materials much more easier.
    Only setback for this is that 1st I need to redesign X axis mount at the right. It not going to cary extra stepper early without sagging even more.

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution

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