Introducing BlackSpin, from team Deadly Kiwi's

UPDATE - I have now included the STEP files for you to download on my website.
This should allow you to easily edit them in your chosen CAD programs.

Download the files here - https://combatrobotics.co.nz/product-category/free-robot-plans/

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This is a 150g Antweight Drum Spinner BattleBot.
A few recent fights with V2.
https://youtu.be/Prl7PghuMDY
https://youtu.be/wxlJHwt8pHA
https://youtu.be/8xXINkV_zuI

This runs this electronics kit - https://combatrobotics.co.nz/product/antweight-bot-kit-pusher/
The wiring guide is here and very simple - http://combatrobotics.co.nz/antweight-bot-kit-build-guide/

You just need a Weapon motor and Weapon ESC.

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Its designed to fit into a 100x100mm cube box as per New Zealand Antweight regulations.

Help a guy out and throw me a like to keep me motivated.
TIP me if you want this design to continue on with updates as I patch weaknesses found after my fights.

Design Notes:

• The Motor mount has a sunk channel for the motor cable to sit in safely away from the weapon and to pass through the firewall into the body cavity.
• I use black electrical tape to keep all components inside the body. I just wrap it around the entire body. This isn't elegant, but works well. Once I get the ESC weight down this will allow for a top plate to be added. I am thinking of a clear polycarb plate cover.
• The Drive motors are easily quick tie mounted to little blocks. There are holes in the design for the ties to pass through. These perfectly align the motor flush to the body, keeping the cogs safely protected. Note the ties will fit inside the motor plates, so make sure you turn the motors around so the side with least cogs points out, otherwise the tie could rum on the cogs!
• The weapon mount arms are susceptible to horizontal spinners. If you commonly face one (eg: Shrapnel) then put a 5mm wide, strip of .4mm thick aluminum strip down each side. Use double sided 3M anti vibration tape to mount this, adding further shock protection to the brittle PLA plastic. Both of these are common to most model shops. Beware of weight!
• I have not yet tried, but suggest looking at adding a flanged bearing to the weapon mount opposite the motor. I have tried with a coper sleeve which gets hot and I am worried will be a point of failure.

Bill of materials V3 Costs ESTIMATES (AUD as of Oct 18)

Specifics of each and alternative upgrades/ downgrades are explained below.

• Printing: Who know's depends on so much eg filament, DIY etc??
• Transmitter $17
• Wheels $5
• LIPO 2s $21 for 5 pack.
• Drive motors and ESC combo $12.70 + Shipping form US>
• Weapon motor $14.70
• Weapon ESC $11.83
• Motor bearing $2
• Motor mount screw $1
• Switch, 2x 3mm quickties, JST battery plug, plastic wedges, other misc ?? $few dollars.
• Magnet (optional $3)
  (Not factored in: Battery charger, Receiver - recommendations below)

UPDATES: Version 2

Drum V2 - [REDESIGN+ New File]After a big hit against another spinner, the drum sheared in two where the motor mount was. This is a weakness due to the nature of 3D printing. To fix this I redesigned the drum with two 1.5mm holes that go the entire way through the body. You can then press a 1.4mm piano wire through the body thus making the drum ridged. It also ads weight to the outer edge adding to the weapons effectiveness. Files and pics of the process added.

Lighter Transmitter
I use this FS2A 4CH AFHDS 2A Mini Compatible Receiver - https://www.banggood.com/Flysky-FS2A-4CH-AFHDS-2A-Mini-Compatible-Receiver-PWM-Output-for-Flysky-i6-i6X-i6S-p-1214269.html?rmmds=search
But its tricky to get the weapon running off it. It requires mixing channels so that ch3 can be mapped to a Var pot on the transmitter for better control of the spin speeds.
google it and their are wiring diagrams out there. Message me if you want help mixing. It may motivate me to write the guide.

Flanged Bearing Drum Mount [New Component] Prior I used a sintered copper sleeve as the drum mount sleeve. It got too hot and melted the plastic in battle. I replaced this with a ID2mm Flanged bearing (details below). This eliminated the heat issue and also made the drum run smoother with less vibrations! Highly recommended. No design change is needed, just drill the mount hole opposite the motor to the desired size. Mount the flange inside the body, (see picture)

Drive Motor ESC V2 - [New Component] I have now started running these ":DC Micro Metal Gear Motor with built in Drivers - 50:1"
They are very reliable, very very light, and save so much internal space! (See added pic)
Wiring is a little tricky as they need power, (If anyone can help me drawing a wiring diagram for everyone please message me)

Magnets - [TIP] In New Zealand we run on a metal arena floor, and have no rules against magnet use. I have added a strong N52 magnet to the bottom of the body just in front of the wheels. (see pic) I simply drilled into the body and glued them in, sunken in by 0.5mm to prevent it sticking to floor. This gives added traction for pushing and eliminated any steering issues caused by vibrations of the drum after a few hits and it being slightly unbalanced.

Plastic Film scoop - [TIP] running a very thin plastic film strip across the font helps me get under most opponent. Its mounted with double sided tape, which allows you to replace between battles ensuring a sharp clean edge in every battle.

Weapon Motor - [New Component] - Untested: This motor is apparently the same form factor as the DYS BE1104; but has a much lower KV value of (4000kv). Lower k, means less rpm (slower) but more torque for a given voltage. Slower means you can get a good bite on the other bot per revolution. Too fast and you just end up grinding the other bot, not biting or throwing them. https://rotorxracing.com/products/rx1104-brushless-outrunner-motor?variant=1144930317
If you run the DYS - just run it at half speed or lower for best results.

UPDATES: Version 3

Printed in White PETg for added strength. See the pics.

1. Add a lid to the design. It slots into body and locks into firewall. However it still uses tape to secure the lid down.
2. The motors kept moving slightly, so I put lips onto the mounts to better secure them.
3. Added holes to fire wall to allow motors to be easily swapped in the pits, no more threading wires through the little holes in V1,V2.
4. Added more filleting to some of the back to add strength.
5. Increased the wheel arch diameter. Allows you to add silicon to the 40mm foam wheels for added grip.

Main Components:

Wheels: 2 x40mm Tamiya Foam Wheels. (Can replace with 40mm DShaft Pololu wheels)

Drive Motors: 2 x N20 6v Geared Motors 300-600rpm
(Get slower if you compete in a small arena. If you get the i6x below get the 600rpm, you can setup duel rates on the transmitter to have slow/fast mode on a switch.)

Drive ESC:
2 xFingerTech tinyESC v2 - These are the best. But cost. $34.46CAD each!
https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-tinyESCv2
I used 2 of these, which work but add far too much weight and make fitting the components in very tricky. You also have to mod these to remove and shorten cables etc. Be warned. https://goo.gl/gRbFft -

Weapon Motor: 1 xDYS BE1104 - Brushless Motor 5400KV 2-3S
https://goo.gl/2K8ekk (Get the lowest KV possible, to fast and the weapon wont bite the opponent. It comes with 2mm mounting bolts)

Weapon ESC: Yet to find one I'd be happy to recommend.
Turnigy Multistar 32bit 12A Race Spec ESC 2~4S (OPTO)
I am currently running this and am happy, but always looking for other options - https://hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar-32bit-12a-0-lite.html

Battery: Turnigy nano-tech 180mAh 2S 25~40C
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-180mah-2s-25-40c-lipo-pack-5pcs.html

Transmitter: FlySky i6 FS-i6 2.4G 6CH AFHDS RC Transmitter Without Receiver
https://goo.gl/oJPHwo

Receiver: Flysky X6B 2.4G 6CH i-BUS PPM PWM Receiver for AFHDS i10 i6s i6 i6x i4x
https://goo.gl/H5E2JN (It has a good failsafe for the weapon but is very heavy!)
I use this FS2A 4CH AFHDS 2A Mini Compatible Receiver - https://www.banggood.com/Flysky-FS2A-4CH-AFHDS-2A-Mini-Compatible-Receiver-PWM-Output-for-Flysky-i6-i6X-i6S-p-1214269.html?rmmds=search
But its tricky to get the weapon running off it. It requires mixing channels so that ch3 can be mapped to a Var pot on the transmitter for better control of the spin speeds.

MISC:

2 cable ties to mount the drive motors. needs to be within 2.5-3mm wide and 2mm thick to fit into the motor mount holes. I use these and they are perfect! https://www.bunnings.co.nz/crescent-100-x-2-5mm-black-cable-ties-25-pack_p00319542

1 x spacer to fit between weapon and body wall, on the side opposite the motor.
I used a 10mm OD, 1.5mm thick, with 3mm inner hole.

1 x weapon mount bolt. Goes through the body, then screws into the body.
I used a m2 x 35mm long bolt.

1 x Flanged bearing for the drum mount, opposite the motor. ID 2mm OD 5mm Width 3mm
eg: https://mecha4makers.co.nz/product/ball-bearing-flanged-id-2mm/

1 x 2mm Screw, +-20mm long. Used to mount the drum, opposite the motor. Goes through the flanged bearing. You need long enough to give enough support to the drum as this wears all the impact. 2mm has been strong enough so far, but bigger is better if you have spare weight.

6 x weapon teeth. I used counter sunk m2.5 x 5mm screws. These fit the holes made in the drum teeth face already.